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Re: Top Gloss

Subject: Re: Top Gloss
From: clevelee@cswebmail.com
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2002 19:40:49
The polyurethanes (like Imron) can have a flexibilizer added, so much to the
point that they can be used on fabric converings.  In the automotive world, they
are flexibilized to be used on the bumpers.  Very little is needed - a few drops
per quart/litre.  It does not take away from the strength of the bond, but helps
a lot with the dings and age cracks.

Thanks for bringing this up - I've got my paint but didn't think to get the
flexibilizer for it.  Don't know if it works with clear coat, will have to
check.  FWIW, I'm planning to paint in a very lightly violet tinted white
opalescent. Actually has bits of mica in it - reported by the mfg to have very
good (or poor as the case may be) heat retention. Both from being a light color
and from the mica which creates the opalescence. Of course, it is a heavier
finish & with the addition of the clear coat.

Big day yesterday - finally bonded the top on, after using the 'splash' mod and
doing as much as I could before putting the top on.

Cleve Lee
A198 Mono XS Jabiru 3300

On Mon, 11 Nov 2002, Fred Fillinger wrote:

> 
> "Tony S. Krzyzewski" wrote:
> > 
> > ... By the end of the afternoon
> > I had peeled off the paint from both stabilators, one flap and one
> > aileron .. all with little more than my fingernails and the edge of a
> > knife.
> > 
> > Once I have done all of the surfaces I am going to pack up all the mess
> > and post it to Polyfiber and tell them what I think of the product!
> 
> Saddening to hear that, but you _know_ what their reply will be! :-)
> 
> I tested an identical product, System Three, on a stab and the
> firewall, but won't use it...or any poly now, water or solvent.  Poly
> is too hard, a bear to compund/buff, and difficult to spot repair. And
> yes even staining, from a rusty washer and the rubber on an Adel
> clamp.  But unable to bird-crap-test, but no bets on grass and
> blueberries in the diet.   
> 
> I recently repaired an accident-damged STOL wingtip for someone,
> finishing in acrylic base/clear and was reminded how much easier it
> is, with equivalent gloss.  In a recent issue of Sport Aviation,
> expert Ron Alexander opined a caution about poly on fiberglass - can
> be overly stiff he says.  The Imron on the other plane is 15 years
> old, and the fiberglass parts started showing signs of failure at
> about age 10.  Especially the parts exposed to both engine heat and
> sun, like the fiberglass nose bowl - dulling and mud-cracking, but not
> the aluminum top cowl so exposed, nor even plastic elsewhere.  Who
> knows why that is, but I now figure the shorter longevity of acrylic
> enamel isn't a problem, as a finicky paint that outlasts dings,
> abrasions, and stains doesn't now seem to make much sense.
> 
> Best,
> Fred F.
> The Europa Club website is at <<a
href="http://mail.cswebmail.com/jump/http://www.europaclub.org.uk>">http://www.europaclub.org.uk>;

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