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Re: Fw: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts

Subject: Re: Fw: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2014 10:50:26
Will,
Nev understands having good maintanence access is critical.  
I did my one shots to be cheap and eliminate a lot of build and head 
scratching time.  Now I'm back to the head scratching time.

Regards,
Bud
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> 
  To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
  Sent: Monday, October 06, 2014 6:06 AM
  Subject: Re: Fw: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts


  Bud
  Thanks
  Phew...I did almost exactly that.  I used the foot bracket screwed 
upside down to the tunnel.   When I stared nev advised me to open the 
belly per the mono (mine is a tri) which gives me access to all that 
stuff that goes in the tunnel.
  Thanks
  Will

  On 5 Oct 2014 10:50, "Bud Yerly" 
<budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>> wrote:

    Will,
    My old shop computer failed to send this.
    Trying again.  If the photo doesn't show, email me off line.
    Regards,
    Bud Yerly
    ----- Original Message ----- 
    From: Bud Yerly<mailto:budyerly@msn.com> 
    To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
    Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2014 4:51 PM
    Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts


    =EF=BB  Photo E-mail   View slideshow <>| Download images <> 
    Will,
    Indeed.  I have them in 12AY.  They have served me for years.

    However, this annual I will get rid of them.
    In 12AY I did, as I think others have, and flipped the brake 
brackets over and I screwed them into reinforced places in the top of my 
module.
    They work great for steering and general stuff.  As the brake pads 
wear on a long taxi out and back over the months (and letting clients 
fly my plane and get used to brakes and steering), no new fluid can come 
into my cylinder to replenish.  Eventually air does.  So I fill them up. 
 But they must be tail end high to fill absolutely full.  That means I 
unscrew them, fit the funnel Andy Draper made ( I use 5606), fill it up, 
then siphon off the excess, remove the screw in funnel, and insert my 
cap.  Is it hard, no, but there are better ways for lazy guys like me.

    True, a one shot system, as shown, has its downfalls:
    Any leak means no brake left.  The reservoir cannot compensate to 
get you to the chocks.
    As pads wear, no replenishment as above and you get spongy brakes.
    The piston and throw is just undersized for our disk for full 
braking.  (We're not supposed to use the brakes except to stop when we 
taxi so who cares.)

    Plus side is they are dirt simple.  Anybody can figure them out.
    Cheap.  Especially in the UK where the fittings are off the shelf.
    Just OK on the braking as the piston diameter / volume is smaller 
than recommended for the disk we have.  But I can't tell.
    An access hole has to be made for servicing in the tunnel. 
    (Personal Problem: )  My wife asks, "Why is there an ugly hole 
there?"  "Oh I had to fill my brakes, and didn't want to put the cover 
plate back on after filling.  Besides, I still have to check the brake 
pads and such to find out why my fluid was down."  "OK, then why am I 
flying with you with bad brakes?"  "They are not bad.....etc."

    Matco's or Jamar plus:
    Minor leaks won't leave you brakeless.
    Pad wear is never a problem with fluid level.  
    Matco is genuine aircraft quality.  All parts and fittings are 
aircraft standard.
    Jamar is a higher capacity brake and you can no kidding hold the 
brakes with 10 inch handles and skid the tires on run-up with only minor 
pressure.
    I don't have to fiddle with British pipe thread hokum fittings or 
find Department of Transportation fittings (read as leaky) to mount 
lines and fittings.  It's aircraft.  Everything fits and works.
    I don't have to fiddle with re-filling as the brake pads wear.  The 
reservoir fills them without bubbles. 
    Once initially bled, they are virtually maintenance free.  Check 
that, they are brilliantly reliable.  If installed with the reservoir 
side elevated, this allows very easy bleeding and hands off reservoir 
replenishment.

    On the minus side:
    Frankly it is tougher to mount them than flipping the brackets on 
the old style one shot, as platforms have to be made. 
    You need a big hole in the tunnel to access them.
    Matco's are expensive by comparison at over $130 each.  Even as a 
dealer I pay through the nose.  We're aircraft owners, and by definition 
are rich, so who cares about price....  
    Jamar's price is not so bad... But again, it is automotive.
    The transition of the Matco to a hand brake is a hardware part count 
nightmare.  I'm working on it for a direct replacement for my cart brake 
setup.  Reducing parts count mainly.
    The Jamar is a hand brake, so it is much easier to install, but...If 
you fail to secure the pivot bolts with Loctite, and the screw rattles 
out, you're out of a brake instantly.

    Inspection required:  Your first indication you have a problem is 
poor braking due to pad wear as you are on the rivets.  Why you ask, 
would you let them go that long.  They are so reliable, you fail to 
check them except on annual rather than on a 25 hour..  With clients 
using my plane, in ten flights I lost half my pad life until they 
figured out the technique.  Soon I had no braking as the rivets in the 
pads do not give good friction.  OOPS.  Now I do a 25 hour airframe 
inspection as well as oil change.

    Yes, I agree the old go cart brakes do work.  I even installed a 
park brake and it works fine with the one shots.  However, after 
building airplanes for so many years now, I no longer want go cart 
equipment in my airplane and want to change to aircraft standard brake 
master cylinders, with genuine aircraft parts I can order from Matco...  
If I sell the plane, anybody can look at the brakes and say, "yea its 
Matco, I can fix that."  

    Just a matter of preference.

    Regards
    Bud Yerly
    Custom Flight Creations, Inc.<> 
          The park brake and masters are shown.  I installed an aluminum 
hard point into the underside of the top of the tunnel and counter sunk 
screws hold the parts in place in the nutplates shown. 

      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com> 
      To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
      Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2014 1:56 PM
      Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts


      Can one use the old style foot cylinders as finger bakes?


      Will


      William Daniell

      LONGPORT

      +57 310 295 0744


      On Sat, Oct 4, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Bud Yerly 
<budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>> wrote:

        Thomas,
        The part is a Jamar twin cylinder steering brake used in the US 
for some time in trick cars or "drifting".
        It is a good master cylinder for the Europa Trigear with hand 
(finger) brakes.  We have little trouble with them.  It usually is the 
install and bleeding techniques that cause trouble... I have clients 
with the Jamar and have been trouble free for 10 years.  We change fluid 
about every 3-5 years due to moisture concerns or discoloration in the 
reservoir fluid.

        Note:
        Handles must be at least 9 inches long from the piston up for 
very easy operation.
        Bleeding this master cylinder is a bit of a pain.  It must be 
installed so that it can be layed on its side to bleed.  The bleed hole 
is a horizontally drilled hole so to bleed by pressure from the wheel, 
one must lay the Jamar on its side with the bleeded side down and rock 
it to assure a bubble free piston.
        Originally these were shipped without the inside of the bores 
cleaned of polishing fluid as it was assumed one would not operate the 
brakes without reading the Jamar instructions and disassemble and clean 
them.  Unfortunately, Europa and others failed to include this 
instruction.  A new rubber kit is only $30 US.
        Jamar recomends bench bleeding.  I'm too lazy.  
        Works with any type fluid.  We recommend Dot 5 (silicone) or Mil 
5606 hydraulic fluid.  Dot 5 doesn't stain paint or interior in most 
cases.  Mil 5606 is industry standard, but the red sticky fluid will 
stain everything if left to sit.  

        See the attached bleeding guide and how we do park brake 
installs for easier bleeding and operation...  We do a complete bleed in 
about 45 minutes for both sides.  If your brakes were installed 
permanently, then I suggest you make sure you can service them.  In my 
opinion, nothing should be built into an airplane you can't easily 
remove to service, repair or replace.  Nothing.

        Best Regards,
        Bud Yerly
        Custom Flight Creations, Inc.


          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Thomas Scherer<mailto:thomas@scherer.com> 
          To: 
europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
          Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2014 7:31 AM
          Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts


          further to the recent discussion abt parts, I have found in my 
building 
          shack the attached part which I do not find  in the build 
manual. It 
          seems to be aviation grade and possibly related to the control 
linkage 
          of the MG-speed brakes.

          Any suggestions what this could be / or not Europa-related ?

          Thank you in advance

          <Thomas, N81EU>

          BTW, N81EU does now appear in the German Wikipedia. Any takers 
for an 
          English translation ?


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