Will,
My old shop computer failed to send this.
Trying again. If the photo doesn't show, email me off line.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Bud Yerly<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2014 4:51 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts
=EF=BB Photo E-mail View slideshow <>| Download images <>
Will,
Indeed. I have them in 12AY. They have served me for years.
However, this annual I will get rid of them.
In 12AY I did, as I think others have, and flipped the brake brackets
over and I screwed them into reinforced places in the top of my module.
They work great for steering and general stuff. As the brake pads wear
on a long taxi out and back over the months (and letting clients fly my
plane and get used to brakes and steering), no new fluid can come into
my cylinder to replenish. Eventually air does. So I fill them up. But
they must be tail end high to fill absolutely full. That means I
unscrew them, fit the funnel Andy Draper made ( I use 5606), fill it up,
then siphon off the excess, remove the screw in funnel, and insert my
cap. Is it hard, no, but there are better ways for lazy guys like me.
True, a one shot system, as shown, has its downfalls:
Any leak means no brake left. The reservoir cannot compensate to get
you to the chocks.
As pads wear, no replenishment as above and you get spongy brakes.
The piston and throw is just undersized for our disk for full braking.
(We're not supposed to use the brakes except to stop when we taxi so who
cares.)
Plus side is they are dirt simple. Anybody can figure them out.
Cheap. Especially in the UK where the fittings are off the shelf.
Just OK on the braking as the piston diameter / volume is smaller than
recommended for the disk we have. But I can't tell.
An access hole has to be made for servicing in the tunnel.
(Personal Problem: ) My wife asks, "Why is there an ugly hole there?"
"Oh I had to fill my brakes, and didn't want to put the cover plate back
on after filling. Besides, I still have to check the brake pads and
such to find out why my fluid was down." "OK, then why am I flying with
you with bad brakes?" "They are not bad.....etc."
Matco's or Jamar plus:
Minor leaks won't leave you brakeless.
Pad wear is never a problem with fluid level.
Matco is genuine aircraft quality. All parts and fittings are aircraft
standard.
Jamar is a higher capacity brake and you can no kidding hold the brakes
with 10 inch handles and skid the tires on run-up with only minor
pressure.
I don't have to fiddle with British pipe thread hokum fittings or find
Department of Transportation fittings (read as leaky) to mount lines and
fittings. It's aircraft. Everything fits and works.
I don't have to fiddle with re-filling as the brake pads wear. The
reservoir fills them without bubbles.
Once initially bled, they are virtually maintenance free. Check that,
they are brilliantly reliable. If installed with the reservoir side
elevated, this allows very easy bleeding and hands off reservoir
replenishment.
On the minus side:
Frankly it is tougher to mount them than flipping the brackets on the
old style one shot, as platforms have to be made.
You need a big hole in the tunnel to access them.
Matco's are expensive by comparison at over $130 each. Even as a dealer
I pay through the nose. We're aircraft owners, and by definition are
rich, so who cares about price....
Jamar's price is not so bad... But again, it is automotive.
The transition of the Matco to a hand brake is a hardware part count
nightmare. I'm working on it for a direct replacement for my cart brake
setup. Reducing parts count mainly.
The Jamar is a hand brake, so it is much easier to install, but...If you
fail to secure the pivot bolts with Loctite, and the screw rattles out,
you're out of a brake instantly.
Inspection required: Your first indication you have a problem is poor
braking due to pad wear as you are on the rivets. Why you ask, would
you let them go that long. They are so reliable, you fail to check them
except on annual rather than on a 25 hour.. With clients using my
plane, in ten flights I lost half my pad life until they figured out the
technique. Soon I had no braking as the rivets in the pads do not give
good friction. OOPS. Now I do a 25 hour airframe inspection as well as
oil change.
Yes, I agree the old go cart brakes do work. I even installed a park
brake and it works fine with the one shots. However, after building
airplanes for so many years now, I no longer want go cart equipment in
my airplane and want to change to aircraft standard brake master
cylinders, with genuine aircraft parts I can order from Matco... If I
sell the plane, anybody can look at the brakes and say, "yea its Matco,
I can fix that."
Just a matter of preference.
Regards
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.<>
The park brake and masters are shown. I installed an aluminum
hard point into the underside of the top of the tunnel and counter sunk
screws hold the parts in place in the nutplates shown.
----- Original Message -----
From: William Daniell<mailto:wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2014 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts
Can one use the old style foot cylinders as finger bakes?
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
+57 310 295 0744
On Sat, Oct 4, 2014 at 12:56 PM, Bud Yerly
<budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn.com>> wrote:
Thomas,
The part is a Jamar twin cylinder steering brake used in the US for
some time in trick cars or "drifting".
It is a good master cylinder for the Europa Trigear with hand
(finger) brakes. We have little trouble with them. It usually is the
install and bleeding techniques that cause trouble... I have clients
with the Jamar and have been trouble free for 10 years. We change fluid
about every 3-5 years due to moisture concerns or discoloration in the
reservoir fluid.
Note:
Handles must be at least 9 inches long from the piston up for very
easy operation.
Bleeding this master cylinder is a bit of a pain. It must be
installed so that it can be layed on its side to bleed. The bleed hole
is a horizontally drilled hole so to bleed by pressure from the wheel,
one must lay the Jamar on its side with the bleeded side down and rock
it to assure a bubble free piston.
Originally these were shipped without the inside of the bores
cleaned of polishing fluid as it was assumed one would not operate the
brakes without reading the Jamar instructions and disassemble and clean
them. Unfortunately, Europa and others failed to include this
instruction. A new rubber kit is only $30 US.
Jamar recomends bench bleeding. I'm too lazy.
Works with any type fluid. We recommend Dot 5 (silicone) or Mil
5606 hydraulic fluid. Dot 5 doesn't stain paint or interior in most
cases. Mil 5606 is industry standard, but the red sticky fluid will
stain everything if left to sit.
See the attached bleeding guide and how we do park brake installs
for easier bleeding and operation... We do a complete bleed in about 45
minutes for both sides. If your brakes were installed permanently, then
I suggest you make sure you can service them. In my opinion, nothing
should be built into an airplane you can't easily remove to service,
repair or replace. Nothing.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
----- Original Message -----
From: Thomas Scherer<mailto:thomas@scherer.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2014 7:31 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Identification of parts
further to the recent discussion abt parts, I have found in my
building
shack the attached part which I do not find in the build manual.
It
seems to be aviation grade and possibly related to the control
linkage
of the MG-speed brakes.
Any suggestions what this could be / or not Europa-related ?
Thank you in advance
<Thomas, N81EU>
BTW, N81EU does now appear in the German Wikipedia. Any takers for
an
English translation ?
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List<http://www.matronics.com/N
avigator?Europa-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
on>
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