=0A
=0A
=0A
Greg=2C
I hope you don't get too carried away. Every ounce you add=2C or increase
to the frontal area=2C the more performance you loose.
To see an example of one of my cowl mods=2C look at Jerry Hope's 914 with
belt drive alternator. (www.customflightcreations.com click on accessories
and tips.) I cut the front of the cowl off=2C and Jerry and I made a floppy
glass cover then began the task of filling=2C smoothing=2C making a mirror
image for the other side and continuously checking for clearance for the b
elt and pulley. I made a mold of the front early on and it is rough. I sh
ould have cleaned it up. The belt drive alternator really does deliver the
amps.
Note in the photo=2C you can see the alternator is right up against the int
ake opening. It also extends the cowl forward about 1/8-1/4 inch because o
f the pulley.
I still believe my Europa simple VFR cruiser is the best idea.
All LEDs=2C (including the feeble Kuntzelman landing light at .6 amp)=2C no
pitot heat=2C all EFIS and light draw radio/transponder=2C keeps my amps i
n check. Even with all my toys running=2C I do not draw over 15 amps until
I key the mic button.
If I do go on to do a light IFR (health permitting) I'll add a Garming Nav
Com like the SL30=2C and purchase a simple pitot heat (like Angus Aviation/
Dynon). I'll add an Aux battery and an Alternator to the back of the gearb
ox to power the pitot heat and a proper landing light for night. (Aveo has
an LED unit=2C which is expensive=2C but bright. I still would prefer an
HID light=2C however check out the new 13000 Lumen flashlights by Trusfire.
)
The aux battery and alternator will most likely be similar to the B&Cs smal
l unit which will keep the aux battery charged but only have enough battery
life for about 30 minutes at idle for the HID/or LED light and supply the
pitot heat for just the time necessary to penetrate a thin deck. Just the r
amblings of an experimenter.Regards=2CBud
From: gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net
Subject: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
Date: Sat=2C 25 Jan 2014 13:54:17 -0800
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=0A
=0A
=0A
>Perhaps in the situation above=2C it =0A
would be prudent for a 914 builder (914 can draw 11 amps on its own with
=0A
both pumps running) to consider a belt driven ??=0A
>alternator of 40 amps=2C and simply redo the =0A
cowl front and keep the Rotax as a backup in case of belt =0A
failure.=0A
=0A
Bud=2C =0A
or those that know=2C=0A
At =0A
some point=2C or future avionics upgrade=2C my ship will likely need the ex
tra =0A
Watts.=0A
Would =0A
you care to supply a 'teaser' on the making of the cowl mod? I am still =0A
waiting for my FF package=2C so don't yet have a handle on how it integrate
s with =0A
the prop flange=2C but does the front of the cowl terminate just behind the
prop =0A
flange=2C on the smaller-radius drive tube? Are the belt-driven alternator
=0A
components in front of the cowl then=2C requiring the cowl front face to
=0A
be opened up and added to? Is this considered an extensive =0A
change?=0A
Regards=2C=0A
Greg=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com =0A
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud =0A
Yerly
Sent: Thursday=2C January 23=2C 2014 9:13 PM
europa-list
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Ducati =0A
rectifier/regulators
=0A
=0A
=0A
=0A
.....=0A
If you are an amp zealot=2C but still want an aux fuel =0A
pump=2C pitot heat=2C 100 watt landing light=2C strobes=2C heavy draw radio
=0A
(Garmin 430 type)=2C Aux Radio=2C Mode S transponder continuously working
=2C =0A
autopilot=2C stereo high quality music system=2C external power plugs for
=0A
our phones=2C I-pads and inflight video system=2C the Rotax charging =0A
system is not going to hack it.=0A
=0A
Perhaps in the situation above=2C it would be prudent for a 914 =0A
builder (914 can draw 11 amps on its own with both pumps running) to =0A
consider a belt driven alternator of 40 amps=2C and simply redo the cowl fr
ont and =0A
keep the Rotax as a backup in case of belt failure.=0A
=0A
If you build a 912S airplane with all LED lighting=2C Garmin 255 =0A
or Becker Com=2C Simple digital Transponder=2C Aux Boost=2C and maybe an au
topilot for =0A
cruise only and a paper map=2C then the Rotax / Ducati should be fine. =0A
The GR6 or SH may be better and longer lasting to boot. In my =0A
opinion the Rotax system can't put out much more than 15 amps or so and as
=0A
the current increases=2C the voltage output starts to diminish (at least it
does =0A
in my poor old airplane) .=0A
=0A
Just my thoughts.=0A
Bud
=0A
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Jan 2014 16:40:25 +0100
> From: =0A
jan_de_jong@casema.nl
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: =0A
Europa-List: Re: Ducati rectifier/regulators
>
> --> Europa-List =0A
message posted by: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong@casema.nl>
>
> Re =0A
two-phase bridge rectifier/regulator.
> The 2 thyristors in the rectifier =0A
bridge do not short the AC input or
> "dump" anything.
> On the =0A
contrary=2C they disconnect the DC output from the AC input when
> the =0A
output voltage threatens to exceed the set voltage.
> All output current =0A
passes through one branch of one diode and one
> thyristor in series half =0A
the time and through the other identical branch
> also half the =0A
time.
> Heat development is proportional to the output current and the =0A
voltage
> drop across a branch.
> Voltage drops increase somewhat =0A
with current=2C so heat development
> increases more than linearly with =0A
output current.
> In the Ducati device the diode is reportedly a MR2510 =0A
pill (typically
> 0.75V at 10A=2C 0.8V at 20A)=2C the thyristor can be a =0A
2N6504 (typically
> 1.1V at 10A=2C 1.3V at 20A).
> So at 10A the two =0A
branches of the bridge are each expected to generate
> 0.5 x (7.5 + 11) = =0A
9.25W (total 18.5W) of heat.
> And at 20A the two branches of the bridge =0A
are each expected to generate
> 0.5 x (16 + 26) = 21W (total 42W) of =0A
heat.
>
> (
> a failure mode for the Ducati device is =0A
reportedly the loss of
> continuity of a diode pill attachment through =0A
thermal cycling=3B fitting
> external parallel diodes has been proposed as =0A
a solution=3B replacing the
> whole device seems more sensible
> =0A
)
>
> Cheers=2C
> Jan de Jong
> =0A
&g======================
&g======
>
>
> =0A
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ef="http://forums.matronics.com";>http://forums.matronics.com=0A
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