With a non-vented oil burner I would worry about an oil film contaminating
the bonds. This should not be a problem with a non-vented propane heater but
the moisture problem may be. I will ask Gary Hunter, Shell's resin man.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Neubie composite question
<ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
>
> Hi! Ronald./Wayne.
> The working and curing temperatures as listed in the manual need to be
> observed for the requisite bond strengths to be achieved .
> Any form of space heater utilising oil/Parafin burners (unless the burn't
> gasses are directed outside and so don't contribute to the humidity) are
> IMHO a NO NO! Too much water laden atmosphere. Suggest hot water filled
> central heating radiators, electric oil filled radiators,
> mass electric storage heaters or electric hot air blowers, also the use
of
> "dehumidifiers" is very effective. I also sealed my garage floor with a
> polyurethane painted membrane since there wasn't one put underneath on
> construction, I insulated the steel "Up and Over " door, this reminds me
> that I must turn the radiator off since it's now spring and the garage no
> longer needs priority over the house !!!!! I wouldn't use lamps which
> concentrate the energy into spots. It's a general heat you need all over
the
> construction or you may get differential expansion inducing stresses and
any
> polystyrene foam constructions need to be given time to loose the heat
from
> the chemical process since it is an insulator it'self! The sample records
of
> mixes would be somewhat complicated to keep, the really important factors
in
> getting the bond right is with the correct and adequate ABRAIDING of the
> parts to be bonded.
> I'm no authority myself but feel that this kind of logic is best followed.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa 337/MKI/Jabiru 3300 #084
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ronald J.
> Parigoris
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Neubie composite question
>
>
> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>
> > My partner Wayne has a truck with XS Monowheel, Firewall back, A-265
just
> leaving
> > Florida as we speak on the way back to NY. Just in time for the snow
> storm.
>
> Renting a T hangar, not insulated with a 100,000BTU space heater, using a
> Beckman
> home oilburner, but are running it on kerosene.
>
> I kinda sortta think curing epoxy is not going to like the moisture
created
> from
> heater.
>
> I have a 20 by 20 garage that is unheated but insulated. I do have a
50,000
> BTU
> Space heater and Wayne has a heated basement, about 12 x 15 usable area.
>
> A few basic questions about working with epoxy:
>
> What temperature/humidity for what length of time is ideal?
>
> What temperature/humidity for what length of time can you get away with?
>
> Any suggestions how to keep heat up for the cure? Infared lamps? Spot
lamps?
> Other?
>
> Is it a good idea to keep samples of mixed epoxy with notes as to where
you
> used the
> mix?
>
> Kit has accelerated tailplane and accelerated cockpit. What areas are the
> least
> critical to begin with?
>
> What areas are most critical, should be done last?
>
> Sincerly thanks for your help.
>
> We know how to follow complicated build manuals (which either has not seen
> as of yet
> for Europa), but find often after builds that there is a better way than
> depicted.
>
> Fair amount of experiance between Wayne and myself with West System on
> Boats, and
> model airplane work.
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
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