I assume a leaking British car is 'fashionably acceptable', too - yes? If so,
my Austin-Healey is looking good! I've about given up on getting it to not
leak
oil.
----------------
All the best,
Al Fuller
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From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
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On Behalf Of Area-51
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2022 4:44 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Re: What did you do with your Europa this week 8/19 - 8/26
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Chasing oil leaks can be a challenge. Some used to get excited about achieving
dry british motors but then the rest of the vehicle would rust .
Best way to go about it is start with the worst leak first, wipe it all down as
best you can with old cotton t'shirt and then spot clean with either brake clean
or carbi clean; if its real filthy carbi clean will rip through grime the
best... Get the whole engine and surrounding mounting frame and cowling totally
degreased and clean before putting your lower cowling back on (do not use
caustic
degreasers on alloy components; it eats alloy and destroys alternator windings)
... (use compressed air to thoroughly blow off any remaining water if
hosing down degreaser - use acetone last to wipe down cold exhaust headers and
muffler) do an extended ramp run at 3000rpm for at least 5-10 minutes so long
as your temperatures stay green. First few minutes will produce a bit of weird
smell as hot exhaust surfaces burn off.
Pull the lower cowling and start looking from the top front of the engine around
gearbox and fuel pump first then top lower at the oil cooler lines, oil pressure
sender, oil pump and filter, valve covers, pushrod tubes, crankcase plugs
and unions, rear camshaft gear cover... If you are lucky you will be able to
identify more than one leak if there is more than one source) note - don't
overtighten
hose clamps on oil lines, some style clamps will cut through hoses if
overtightened. Sometimes oil hose will harden with age and just keep leaking;
replace the hose.
5-10 minutes running is enough to show up a leak; 30-60 minutes flight time is
enough to show up weeping. A leaking/weeping bolt will be wet on its shank when
removed; it its dry then that's not the source of your leak.
The lower cowling vent around the exhaust provides enough room to shine a torch
up under the crankcase for a quick visual. A mirror on a stick is useful as well
with the top cowling removed.
If unions still leak after tightening to correct torque settings then sealing
washers
should be replaced. Copper washers can be annealed and reused; Wurth Dowdy
washers are the best for unions and plugs and reusable.
There's no excuse for a rotax engine to leak, however a leaking volkswagon motor
is fashionably acceptable.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=507738#507738
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