Chris,
Cooling gills are an issue for some Classics and XS but if the draw out the
bottom cowl is good, you will not need them. If the firewall is made as i
n Cooling 101 on my website, and it all works, leave it. But test.
The 912 and most 912S engines will slightly over cool if all the cooling mo
ds are done. 914s tend to run hotter, especially in the climb.
Cool oil this time of year is not uncommon with a 912. One can set up a bu
tterfly over the bottom of the glycol cooler on an XS to warm up the oil bu
t don't forget and leave it closed. This warms for takeoff and is adjustab
le in flight. Creighton Smith used a Lenovo glycol to oil cooler and it wo
rks really well summer and winter in his Classic. Some have oil thermostat
s, and these are tolerable for most.
Like Ron mentioned. Simply test. Does the oil cool in the climb fine in mi
d summer and this is only a cruise problem. If cool all the time, check th
e sensor, if it is OK, use aluminum tape to partially block the oil cooler
face and fly. I use a thermocouple to check my under hood temps rather tha
n tapes, but the process is the same. Harbor Freight $50 and a long probe
to monitor the oil temp and other components. It works for testing just li
ke the tapes.
I use my gills as a forced air exit for my footwell mounted fan cooled TCU/
Servo box. I left the other as is for symmetry. It's an experimental! Ta
pe over the gills and if all is OK fill them. On some I removed the gills
and put in an access panel for a battery plug. On the other side, a small
access door to store the funnel for glycol filling and oil filling.
It will get hot in a few months. Test again in full summer. Make your dec
ision, then paint. It is better to do the painting in the summer mornings
anyway.
If you do everything to cool, most of the time the 912 engine will overcool
. Make a cowl flap to close off the exit or put a butterfly in the inlet.
On an XS, a butterfly can be done and a mechanical push pull and arm mecha
nism will not have to be disconnected to remove the cowl. That=92s conveni
ent.
If the cowl flap is chosen it affects both the glycol and oil temps. That
may not be convenient. The butterfly can be oil only or do one for both oi
l and glycol. That=92s convenient too.
Cowl flaps are best to be moved electrically as the cowl flap mechanism has
to be attached to the cowl. It is far easier to remove a plug on the top
of the footwell rather than a linkage. Make an electronic thermostat contr
ol using an Arduino and some sensors if you want. No matter how simple, a
cowl flap with a mechanical linkage requires me to crawl under the airplane
. That is not hard, it is the getting back up that=92s hard.
Enjoy your plane. Sounds like you are having fun. That is the point of bu
ilding.
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> On Behalf Of n7188u
Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2022 2:01 PM
Subject: Europa-List: To gill or not to gill
rb@gmail.com>>
Hello Forum Members,
Quick question, I never opened my top cowling aft gills. Temp strips instal
led inside the engine compartment confirm that my voltage regulator at the
firewall, the battery also at the firewall and the engine's ignition module
s are all running bellow the strips minimum temperature of 130F.
In general I am battling low oil temperatures even during climbs in summer
where the temps are normal.
I searched in the forums for info on this subject and it seems the consensu
s gravitates toward not opening the gills.
Any thoughts?
Chris
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