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Europa-List: Re: To gill or not to gill

Subject: Europa-List: Re: To gill or not to gill
From: n7188u <chmgarb@gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Feb 2022 13:46:26

That's a lot of questions Ron :) and I will answer what I remember right now, 
with
a little more time on the ones I don't:

** Are you using supplied oil and coolant radiator
> Yes

** What coolant are you using
> Dexcool 50/50.

** What is max. CHT and Coolant Temps you have seen, on ground and in flight
> I think around 200-210 (old CHT and oil) in the middle of summer. With the new
engine I have seen around 180-185F max water and oil temps, more typical it
has been 165-175F (even with a quart of the oil cooler taped over. but OAT are
in the order of 50-65F. Both oil and water tend to track the same with oil being
a little colder.

** Did you calibrate your CHT, OT and Coolant temp gauges
> Yes with the previous engine. Not with the new.

** What is maximum cylinder wall Temps you have seen?
> Unknown

** Are you using factory firewall, or did you do something else like put on aft
side of UCMF like Bud suggests on a mono
> I have a Bud Yerly firewall for the mono. Really cool (probably literally).

** What is your gap between the aft side of your radiator duct and firewall
> Will have to look but Bud's firewall provides lots of clearance and a 
> relatively
smooth transition for the air to flow out.

** What procedure do you use to shut down when you know you will be doing a hot
start
> I always follow what Rotax says in the OM. Cool down at least two minutes, got
o low idle (1400) turn off one ignition, wait a few seconds then the other.

** How does your engine start when hot
> Perfectly

** Are your intake eyeballs factory size
> Yes

** Did you do anything for eyeballs to aid flow on the inside of the cowl
> No

** Did you modify the radiator duct entrance intake lip
> Yes. Diffusers on both top and bottom. On the sides the duct just ends with 
> some
rubber seals sealing most of the gap. The intent was to also add diffusers
to the sides later on but it is so good right now I am not bothering yet. I also
modified the duct, making it's top straighter to keep the x-sectional area
almost constant (muffler clearance permitting) until a few inches from the 
coolers
and then the area opens up relatively fast to drop the speed and raise the
air pressure just before it hits the coolers.

** Is your radiator duct sealed really well from front to back along with your
radiators
> Very very well. The duct and coolers are totally sealed with no gaps where air
could escape around them.

As I said, I really have no cooling issues so far. Don't know what will happen
when I go to Oshkosh and have to wait a long time to depart but compared to my
LongEZ I can run it on the ground and climb forever in the Florida heat and had
no issues so far. I attribute that to Bud's firewall and the duct/coolers 
sealing,
baffling and intake lip mods I implemented.

Chris


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