I done the mod in situ prior to the top half of the fuselage being
installed.
Using a 9.5mm drill bit which my callipers showed was just a "fraction"
smaller than a 3/8" bit that was called for in the mod instructions, I
filled the flutes of the 9.5mm bit with Redux, when set, placed in Drill and
sanded smooth, level with the edges of the flutes, this stopping the bit
---From elongating the leading hole when drilling through the back hole of the
Torque tube, I then redrilled the leading (fwd) holes with the 3/8" bit
*carefully*, my thinking behind this was should any minute amount of metal
be shaved off the pins going through the first hole will be more than made
up for by the smaller rear hole, it did, was tight going through the leading
hole and real tight going through the rear.
I would hate for whatever reason trying to get them out, the split pins are
now just for show.
Peter
Builder #198
> >In my naivity, I'm sitting w/ a pair of the 3/8" pins thinking that I
simply
> >would have to upsize the 1/4" holes w/ a simple drill and that would be
> >that.
> >
> >Anyone out there: How have you handled the TP12 mod?
> >
> >Fred
>
> Fred
> drill undersize by about 15 thou, then ream out to slight undersize.
> Measure the pins first and find a metric or letter reamer the size you
> need. Reamer bored about 1/2 thou over it's own size.Pete Churms' pins
were
> exact to size. The reamer size we used is lost in the dark corners of my
> brain ?:-[
> The job needs to be done with the tube firmly clamped to a decent machine.
> Don't try it by hand, it will be expensive, cheaper to buy a drill stand!
> BTW it took about 1 1/2 hours to get the tubes out of the completed
> fuselage, much longer to get them back! We used a Dremel cut off wheel to
> get the split pins out. No body had to crawl down the hell hole.
> Graham
>
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