Guys, We need to bear in mind that this is NOT a required A.D. for U.S.
builders. It's a lot of trouble and expense for something that isn't really
necessary. If you plan to regularly hose your engine compartment down with
acidic cleaning solutions, and pressure wash them, then you need to comply.
G-ELSA, N512SA, has 685 hours on the hobbs, has NO cover over the stator
assembly, and is fine. This plane as some of you know, was never babied in
its life. If you do not allow general aviation mechanics to treat it like a
tractor engine it will be fine. There are only two cases of this happening,
both on FBO maintained planes, both on Diamond Katana's. Both were soaked
down with an acidic cleaning solution. My friend at Kodiak here in the
states has said you will NOT void your warranty by not changing your stator
assembly. IMHO, it isn't worth the trouble.
Jim Thursby
Europa N814AT
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Chris Beath
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 4:07 AM
Subject: Re: Stator Mod - Note 2
John etc
The Rotax agent in New Zealand said that he has broken a lock pin because of
the amount of torque required (which meant he then had to strip the engine
down) and strongly recommends instead to use a pneumatic impact wrench on
the rear nut. I suppose the theory is that the short sharp jarring on the
nut will provide the breakout force required without applying too much
torque to the crankshaft.
My replacement stator is still 3 weeks away so I'd be interested in feedback
---From anyone who tries this first!
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: JohnJMoran@aol.com <JohnJMoran@aol.com>
Date: Monday, 31 May 1999 07:03
Subject: Stator Mod - Note 2
>The saga of the stator mod continues:
>
>The Locktite #222 ordered after examining the directions in the kit arrived
>so I began the stator mod. The first question arose in locating the lock
>screw properly. The directions say to rotate the flywheel until the number
>impressed on it lines up with the opening in the surround; there are two
>numbers on my flywheel and 3 openings in the surround. The proper
alignment
>was found with the 4 digit number in the upper stbd opening. The locking
slot
>is easily visible through the lock pin hole per the directions. The lock
pin
>will protrude about 3/4 inch when the crank is locked.
>
>In removing the bolt which secures the flywheel, an impressive torque is
>required. I had to brace my foot against the engine mount to get sufficient
>leverage using a 16 inch handle. Using full body weight on the handle was
>not sufficient. The flywheel puller worked well, producing a loud bang
when
>the Locktite on the shaft released.
>
>As the crowning touch, the replacement stator supplied for my 912S seems to
>be the wrong one. The pins on the end of the replacement unit's red wires
are
>1/8 inch circular connectors while the installed stator has small flat pins
>which look identical to those used for the connectors which go to the
>ignition switch. There is no part number on the replacement unit. The only
>notable difference (other than the connectors) is that the replacement
stator
>has a black dot of paint at the 6 o'clock position.
>
>Others about to start the stator mod would do well to open the ignition
>connector and compare connectors before removing the engine to verify that
>the proper replacement stator is in hand. Probably should try to verify
that
>the proper flywheel puller is supplied also since this is another place
where
>things could go awry.
>
>In my opinion, it would be extremely difficult to change the stator without
>removing the engine from the airframe in the Mk 1 Europa with standard
engine
>mount. So far, it seems that it will be possible to make the change
without
>removing the engine mount from the engine.
>
>John A044
>
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