Hi Fred,
Good answers all, but I find for that Redux thin film and sometimes thicker film
removal does not require a power tool at all times. I do the following:
I have a one inch and two inch sanding disk attachments for a drill with stick
on Velcro pads or roll lock. I have roll locks by 3M and other providers for
1, 2, and 3 inch sanders. I think I spent 20 bucks and they are great for those
nasty little corners. I no longer put the small disks doing fine work on my
90 degree air tool as it cuts too fast for delicate/precision work. I simply
use 80 grit on the wheel to do the corners nicely. A piece of .016 metal in
the slot helps keeping the edges of the roll lock from edge cutting deeply. I
will grind off the disk edge to prevent it from digging in and protect the edge
of the flange with a bit of thin metal. A sanding drum is hard to control
the depth so I prefer a flap wheel on slow speed on my multitool. The flap
wheel
is about 10mm / 3/8" so the width is about right and it doesn't grind into
the corners as bad or cut too fast causing a rippled surface.
Otherwise, assorted stick on grits of sandpaper (normally I use 60, 80, 120
grits)
attached to a FLAT STICK OR PIECE OF WOOD as a sanding block works quick and
easy. I initially use the 60 to 80 grit to break the top and finish with the
120 as I get to the gelcoat. I normally am half way around a windscreen before
one of the guys got the power tool ready. The nice thing about a stick or
block is I can set the paper on just shy of the edge of the block and the wood
rides in the slot without cutting into the finished gelcoat area of the recess.
The corners can be a bear so a rotary disk on a slow 800 rpm drill and a
deft hand works for me. My son was very good with the oscillating Fein tool.
I never liked it as much as hand sanding the straight areas, and I have a tool
for just about everything. Dremel also made a good linear oscillating sander
with many heads and of course genuine Dremel sanding pads, but it is no longer
available. Shame, as it was a very nice tool for detail work.
There is no fast way to do it. High Speed Power tools can dig in and give an
uneven
surface but with practice and a deft hand, some metal guards to protect
areas you don't want damaged by the edge of the tool, will work. But from my
experience, Redux with flox in it is quite sandable by hand. Your fingers tell
you how much force your putting on the paper and your eye will not allow you
to dig in. You will get a nice even cleaned and prepped surface.
Just my thoughts,
Bud Yerly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
<owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com>
On Behalf Of Fred Klein
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2022 9:52 PM
Subject: Europa-List: replacing acrylic window
Gents,
Among the tasks I face ahead is to replace my shattered starboard door/window.
Using a heat gun, I have successfully removed the shards with heat sufficient to
soften the acrylic and break its bond with the Redux but without making the
slightest impression in the Redux itselfit remains as a smooth film which is
bonded
to the recess in the door/window frame.
I would like to remove the existing Redux in order to have the full depth of the
frame recess available for a fresh bed of Redux when I install the new window.
Would anyone have a recommendation on the best way to remove the existing Redux?
thanks,
Fred
A-194
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