Richard,
I am sure that we have been here before.
Try the following:-
!. With the choke out, and throttle closed, turn the engine over with the
starter.
2. Switch a magneto switch on, and the engine just takes over.
3. Clearly the starter switch can now be released, and the second magneto
switched in.
You will find no kick back on the sprag clutch, so it should last forever.
I used to start my 912s with both mag switches on before starting, and had
the kick back. It does not happen now. Thanks go to William Mills for that
tip, after he had spent 800 quid and three days replacing his sprag clutch.
He told me that he probably would not have needed to do it if he had been
able to take his own advice. His starter and mag. switches are not separate!
The same seems to be true in reverse. To stop that nasty kick stop when
switching off, pull back the revs to 1700, switch of one mag. When the revs
drop back, switch off the other mag. I do it and get a nice soft engine
stop. This may not work for everyone, but it works for me. Incidentally, I
am still using an inexpensive gell 17ah battery,and the original starter
after 285 hours
Sadly, for those who have install those expensive all-in-one switches you
can do either of these techniques, so you may have a difficult choice. New
switches, or new sprag clutches.
Hope that this helps. Best regards. Bryan G-BYSA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Holder" <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: 912S starting
>
> Continuing the saga of my completely-non-starting-912S.
>
> Well, I spent the morning stripping out the carbs. They were perfect - no
> dirt at all.
>
> My starting failures now seem to have joined the array of 912S problem
> engines. It would seem that about 1 in 20 of these engines end up with the
> kick-back problem, and I've got one :-(
>
> I spoke to Jerry Davis of Lyndhurst and he had three suggestions which can
> be done in turn.
>
> 1. Fit a Red Top battery, which is designed to give a high starting
current
>
> 2. Fit the Rotax solution which is a higher powered starter motor
>
> 3. Rebuild my sprag clutch.
>
> I have ordered #1 and to be certain it has the best chance of working I
will
> initially test it on the firewall with really short leads.
>
> There is some doubt about the newer starter motor. I have heard that it
> won't fit and I have heard it will fit. I have a Classic fuselage with the
> XS firewall forward set-up. Has anyone got the dimensions of the bigger
> starter motor ? I have plenty of length available but little additional
> width. Better still - has anyone installed one of these starter motors ?
Did
> it come with a new support strap, or did it use the original (implying
that
> it is the same diameter)
>
> I have removed the blanking plate on the back of the engine. Access to the
> flywheel is quite reasonable.
>
> Can the starter motor be removed and replaced without removing the engine
?
> Can the flywheel be removed in situ ? Can the sprag clutch be done in situ
> after removing the flywheel ? Loads of questions - sorry.
>
> Does anyone have a manual which gives details ? In have the "Rotax
> Maintenance" manual but that only covers routine maintenance like oil
> changes. Is there a workshop manual which would give a breakdown of how
the
> flywheel and sprag clutch interact ?
>
> I am sure there isn't a Haynes manual for it :-)
>
> The manual I have talks of "the crankshaft locking screw (part no 240 880)
> which is part of the standard tool kit supplied with each engine". Does
> anyone HAVE one of these. I don't remember seeing it !
>
> Writing with a disfunctional aircraft
>
> Richard
> Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
> Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
> Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
> SG12 8SH email : rholder@avnet.co.uk
> Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
> PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>
>
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