Hi! Tony .
I have been fortunate that all my major building tasks were done spring
time and winter time in UK.
I maintained 20/25 degrees C and in consequence the humidity was mostly in
the early 30's percentage .The worst I've noticed was the other day at 62
%. I certainly recommend that you have those temperatures for at least 1
hour prior to mixing up and the resins and glass cloth should be held at
that temperature for some time prior to that to allow 'heat soak' to
stabilise . unless you have a centrally heated garage like mine . I also
damp proof sealed the concrete floor with about 4 coats of urethane to
reduce the moisture content since the jerk who built the house didn't put
any polythene menbrane under the concrete floor..
By the way , to report on the wife , she had the tumour removed
satisfactorily , has had the first chemotherapy shots about three weeks ago
and been quite well considering the volume of drugs inserted, but today her
hair started to fall out so we look like being two 'bone domes' together .!
She goes for her second shots tomorrow. She is a brave fatalist ! She says
" she could have been knocked down by a bus " to which I retorted " But you
don't go near any B------ busses !"
BFN
Bob Harrison 337 G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Renshaw [SMTP:renshaw@ozemail.com.au]
Sent: 25 May 1999 04:01
Subject: Winter Layups
Gidday,
I am considering doing layups throughout winter using an airconditioner to
supplement the heat and would like to request if anyone thinks this
inadvisable due to the hydroscopic nature of the resin and cloth. I intend
to do the flap skins and the leading edge of the wings (Classic Mk I ). I
figure if I do it on a dry winter day with a relative humidity of less than
60% in the workshop, the risk lies in the fact that the airconditioner will
pass numerous airchanges over the job throughout the cure, and I will be
using the SP Systems Slow Hardener for mixing. You Northern Hemisphere
fellas are probably used to doing layups in winter, and may easily be able
to allay my fears (I hope so). I havent seen a job that has absorbed a lot
of moisture but I seem to remember it looks a bit milky when it has gone
off. Is this correct????
The main problem seems to be having to run the airconditioner throughout
the entire cure 24-36 hours to ensure adaquate heat to maintain the
chemical reaction. In winter downunder the temps in my workshop reach about
10-12 degrees C without supplemental heat.
Any advice would be appreciated, as I do not want to find excuses to kill
my resurected enthusiasm.
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
Reg
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
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