Traditional LVLP setup; use a standard suction style gun for all your prep work;
it doesn't need to be anything expensive; if you do use All-U-Need you will
need a larger nozel as it is a heavily solids loaded product so youwill need to
remove or upgrade the pickup strainer in the paint pot.
Invest in a good gravity fed gun and a few sets of spare seals and pot strainers
for your top coats and keep it thoroughly clean always before and after use;
put about 250ml of cheap thinners through it at the end of each session before
you strip it down and clean it; it will last a lifetime if you care for it
properly.
You don't need the most expensive one just a mid level professional unit.
Upgrade to a 1L paint pot if it doesnt already have one. Never leave mixed
2pak paint in the pot for more than 24hr. If the paint sets off in the gun you
will probably have to throw it in the bin; same for your primer gun. If you
can afford a second standby gun for top coats then do it. Top coats can be
stressful
the more you can do to prevent delays during the session the more relaxing
the job will be.
Have a designated test board to spray on and tune your spray pattern and paint
saturation before hitting the actual job. Get your technique sorted before
hitting
the job surfaces. Work out the point where your paint starts to run; when
it does you've put it on too thick; once it looks wet move on to another spot;
work broadly steadily and quickly; know your "flash times" and don't spray back
into flashed paint; so again plan how you are going to move around the job
"wet on wet" to stay ahead of the flash time. You want to be able to lay down
a quick mist coat followed by a full wet coat. You will be doing this over three
seperate sessions for your top coat, and two sessions if finishing off with
final clear.
Apply a cheap guide coat over the job for your final blocking sessions; you can
also use your first top coat if you can afford it. Your guide coat should be
a contrasting shade to your base coat and fillers.
Again follow the manufacturer instructions on humidity, ambient temperature,
paint
to thinner/extender ratios, flash times, and pot life.
Work out what the different adjustments on the gun do to the spray pattern and
surface quality. If something goes wrong while you are spraying stop straight
away and get it rectified rather than flying on into the bad weather; top coat
is expensive.
Plan where you are going to clean and wash your gun when finished; well away
from
the job.
Youtube "blocked spray nozzle" because it may and probably will happen mid
session...
know how to flush out the nozzle and tell tale signs of a blockage; experience
will find you hearing when it happens.
Get a good water trap installed on your compressor and a smaller inline one at
the gun. You will need earplugs.
Use a plain airline rather than a coiled one.
Heavy paints like high fill primer, overspray will fall to the ground quickly
rather
than float around in the air; the opposite will occur with top coats which
will get on everything.... everything; if you can gain access to a booth for
these top coat sessions take it; creating a booth at home is not difficult
though
with enough plastic sheet, fly screen and exhaust fan to pull the mist away
---From the work surfaces; you can wet the floor before painting which prevents
a lot of dust being fluffed around.
White is the best colour to apply its the least revealing of imperfections when
complete; black is the total opposite; thats why great quality base coats are
black.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wfwq3PdZfnQ
Peter is an old school surface scientist... you will save time, frustration, and
money...
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