Jeroen,
Spar pip pins are just under .5 inches. I=92ve reamed the bushes on most o
f my aircraft. I don=92t do hammers, channel lock pliers, and crowbars to
rig an airplane. Pins should slide in with some effort but not be so tight
, hammers must be used. Disassembly should not require wood, crowbars and
vice grips.
A word of caution. DON=92T OVER DO IT ON THE REAMING!
If you did your initial pin alignment check with the wings off the plane an
d the incidence angle on each wing perfect when you set your bushes, and yo
ur bolts and sockets are nearly a zero tolerance fit, things will be pretty
close. If the pins are hard to set in this position at this point, it wil
l be worse in the plane.
With the port wing in the fuselage, and the spar socket and incidence and s
weep correct on the port wing, when you glue the cockpit bushes all should
be OK, sort of. There is a very good chance that the angle of the bush in
the cockpit will be just slightly off as the bolts you are using are rather
sloppy at anywhere from .5 inches to .493 inches diameter depending on coa
ting. The Europa supplied raw steel alignment bolt is typically at the min
imum dimension. That is why I have tight fitting pip pins or bolts to set
my bushes during construction so I cut down the slop as the glue dries and
use extreme care to align the incidence angle and dihedral for proper align
ment.
Bad news:
Bushings are anodized and normally right at the .5 inch diameter.
The SouthCo pip pin is nominally .4985 inches.
The Allen bolt pin for the starboard side is .497 to .495. Since it takes
about .005 for any kind of tight slip fit, a .499 pip pin just won=92t go i
n easy, ever. No amount of grease will fix that fit, and you very well may
destroy the pip pin with rigging and derigging. The average hardware unco
ated steel bolt used in the assembly is a bit sloppier so a clean up of any
redux in the wing spar bushes and anodizing in the sockets and the alignme
nt may be necessary.
With the port wing rigged, and the starboard pin inserted, use a straight f
lat tipped drift to check your spar to bush fit on the port side. You shou
ld feel no hard lip in the cockpit to wing bush with the wing set properly
in the cup at incidence. If there is a sharp edge, your bushings should be
reset as you will be reaming a lot. If it is a slight detent or rough spo
t, then ream it or reset the socket. Rig the other wing and support it and
check the wing socket fit. It should be nearly aligned. Again use the dr
ift to check, then determine if it must be reamed. Yes, ream from the cock
pit, all the way through both spars. Insert the pin and check the other si
de. Your plane will forever rig comfortably in only a few minutes. No fus
sing and fighting unless something is not aligned right. Remember, you onl
y want to ream a couple thousands not 10s of thousandths.
Mic your bolts and pins, then mic your bushes. If a bush in the cockpit is
off slightly either heat a bolt and insert to soften the Redux and realign
(always dangerous) or carefully ream the hole with the spar inserted and w
ing braced into its position so there is no bending on the fuselage or wing
spars. Don=92t hit the tank with the reamer!
Your own .5 reamer is handy to have, as the door shoot bolts will need a to
uch up after glue in as will the washer on the port wing socket also. So b
uy one. A cheap Chinese reamer will do and it only cost a couple of beers.
For the cost of a case of beer, you can get a set. Reamer sets of 3/16 t
o =BD inch are really handy for reaming the engine mount to 5/16 for engine
install, as well as cleaning many 3/16 bolt holes, cleaning out paint from
all holes, aligning poorly welded and drilled parts and the like. Get a s
et and it pays for itself. Cheap sets are $20-30 and excellent sets are $8
0.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Custom Flight Creations, Inc.
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Window
s 10
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 7, 2019 12:53:16 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Reaming of spar and CM bushes
Jeroen
I would hesitate to ream spar bushes. My experience is that when the wings
are in the right position the pins go in easily but when the wings are not
in the right position putting the pins in is from tough to impossible. In
my case the right position requires adjustment to wing position both in di
hedral (tip up/down) and cord (twist) if that makes sense. The right combi
nation results in the pins going in easily.
Will
William Daniell
LONGPORT
On Wed, Aug 7, 2019 at 8:54 AM jglazener <j.glazener14@gmail.com<mailto:j.g
lazener14@gmail.com>> wrote:
to:j.glazener14@gmail.com>>
I have finally got the wings on and the bolts in. Bit of a black art since
you can't look in and have no idea what you are doing. Once the lift pins h
ave been bonded that should at least be repeatable but I still foresee that
getting the spar pins in and out easily will still be difficult. Reaming a
t that point, as mentioned by Ian Ricard in his instructions would be the
obvious choice. Any body done this, and if so do you still have the reamer
and could lend it to me?
--------
Jeroen
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=44165
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