>
> Carl
> I have just spent the last three weeks fighting carb issues and also insta
lled the overhaul kit. I also installed new carb bowls as mine were deformed
from over torque on the attachment bolt. I have also replaced the attachmen
t bolt for the car bowl with the new type and oring. The new bolt has a rece
ss for the oring and therefore holds the oring in place! I was unsure about t
he distance for the float arms as well. I reinstalled the old ones and measu
red the distance from the center of the arm to the flat area of where the ma
in jet assembly is screwed in. So the carb is sitting upside down for this m
easurement just like the manual shows if you had the special rotax measuring
device. Anyway I did see that they are parallel to the body, your can see t
his pretty well. I also measured from the center of the arm up to the carb f
lange that is right next to the arm and is a reference point to see if the a
rm is parallel. That distance was 11mm. I put the new arms back on and tweak
ed them so that they also are the same as old or 11mm. That puts them parall
el also. This worked for me. My engine was running very rough at about 3000 r
pm and then would bog down before the carb overhaul. After the overhaul I co
uld move thru the rough area and smooth out again.
> I went thru the mechanical balance and pneumatic balance,this helped but s
till had rough spot. =46rom my rotax class they had a trouble shooting metho
d for carbs. Set the rpm at 2000 after engine is warm, then slowly pull the
carb choke out. The rpm should rise about 400 to 600 rpm then bog. That wou
ld be normal for main jet setting. Mine only gained 200 rpm which indicates t
o lean a setting. I moved main jet needles on each carb to a richer position
, lowered the clip on each carb which raise the jet to a richer setting. Ran
the engine and was much better and the rough spot went away. Long story but
my engine is now running smooth again thru all ranges.
> But I still have a separate issue with my yellow caution lite blinking. Th
e rotax folks want me to send it (tcu) in for a diagnosis, looks like I will
be doing that Monday. The light starts to blink at about 2300rpm and will s
top if throttle down and then start again as rpms rose to about 2300. Even w
ith the engine not running the lite will come on when the throttle is advanc
ed and extinguish when pulled back. So looks like the throttle position sens
or is working but maybe not correct or the tcu is not working. This issue wa
s there before I overhauled the carbs so is not due to the overhaul.
> I will start a new thread on this issue.
> I will try attach a photo of the attachment bolt.
> Good luck Carl.
> Jerry
>
> <image.jpeg>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 2, 2013, at 1:57 AM, "Carl Pattinson" <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Has anyone used the proper Rotax tool for setting the float levels.
>>
>> We have just overhauled the carburettors using the Bing overhaul kit (nea
rly =C2=A3300 from Skydrive) =93 this was long overdue and should be d
one every 5 years. I assumed that the supplied float operating arm would be f
actory set but it seems this is not the case.
>>
>> According to the maintenance manual, a special tool should be used which I
understand can be hired from Skydrive for a nominal charge. Looking at the m
anual it looks as though the float arms need to be parallel to the main carb
body but I could be wrong in this assumption.
>>
>> The upshot of the overhaul has been a rough running engine which upon inv
estigation looks like a weak mixture. Conrad Beales website says that if you
remove the float bowls after running the engine the fuel level should be 1
=998 =9C (3mm) from the top of the bowl =93 we had nearer 8-
10 mm. Looks like we need to order up the setting tool and do the job prope
rly.
>>
>> So back to the original question =93 anyone used the adjustment too
l and how easy was this. Failing this is there another better way.
>>
>> I spoke briefly to Kevin Dilks and he suggested that the float arms shoul
d be parallel(as above) but I=99m not sure this is a precise enough se
tting.
>>
>> PS: thanks all for your comments on THROTTLE STOPS =93 I am incline
d to agree with Duncan in his observation that the carb stops are the main o
nes that can be overridden by applying gentle backpressure on the throttle l
ever to give a usefully reduced RPM on descent =93 with the cockpit st
op acting as the safety backup to prevent damaging the carb throttle arms et
c.
>>
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-se
rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan & Ami
>> Sent: 01 June 2013 08:53
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
>>
>> Whilst complying with the LAA requirement for a throttle stop, it's usefu
l to set up the cables so that the carb stops are reached first, followed cl
osely by the stop on the throttle lever itself if the lever is deliberately p
ulled closed against the throttle lever stop. This limits any excess strain t
hat can be applied to the cables, but provides a useful facility to temporar
ily pull down the idle speed in flight (which in any case will still always b
e well above the static setting, as the forward motion drives the prop). As s
oon as the deliberate backpressure on the lever is released, 'normal service
' is resumed
>> This facility makes a usefully large addition to rate of descent and is h
elpful for landing in to short strips; it's like having an airbrake!
>>
>> Duncan McF.
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-se
rver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Pattinson
>> Sent: 30 May 2013 09:23
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Throttle Stops
>>
>> I seem to recall in the early days of Europa that the PFA dictated that w
e should install a physical throttle stop on the throttle lever (in the cock
pit).
>>
>> I have never really understood the purpose of this as the carburettors ha
ve their own stops as IMHO one seems to fight against the other. As soon as y
ou increase the idle RPM using the adjuster screws on the carb, the throttle
lever is pulled forward by the cables, moving the lever away from the cockp
it stop.
>>
>> We have flown quite happily with the carb stop limiting the slow running w
ith a gap of about 2 mm between the rear of the throttle lever and the stop
block (tufnol). However, we have just overhauled the carbs and are resetti
ng the balances etc so were wondering if this omission needs to be addressed
=93 it would just be a matter of elongating the holes in the throttle
stop.
>>
>> Reading through various articles on Rotax/ Bing carburettor balancing I n
ote that these also stress the need for a cockpit end stop but give no expla
nation as to why.
>>
>> I=99m sure there is a good reason, just need someone to cast some l
ight on this.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List";>http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com";>http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution";>http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
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