On 24/10/2012 21:23, Neville Eyre wrote:
Dam, I just saked my local blacksmith to fix thew plroblem
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:-) .
> Hi All,
> No one spotted my deliberate mistake in my earlier posting, re the
> interference fit of the pins.......a typo....
> Should have read as 0.0007'' undersize holes in the torque tube, so
> not a job for the local blacksmith !
> I was talking to someone about Bud's cooling the pins system when it
> dawned on my I had missed a zero......
> Cheers,
> Nev.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
> To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 22:26
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
>
> Hi Alan,
> Can't believe LaaLaaLand won't let you put Inspection Panels in as per
> the Manual ?
> If you have no panels back there at all, installing some as directed
> in the relevant Chapter won't be a ''Mod'', just bringing you airframe
> in compliance with what has been approved ?
> The small spy hole lets you see in there, the larger access hole is in
> the correct position for you to get your arm in, folded round the
> corner and able to work on the torque tube / trim items.
> I would be tempted to do it, get it signed off by an Inspector, raise
> a Worksheet and make an entry in the aircraft's Log Book, at the same
> time as doing the pin work.
> On next years Permit Renewal Form, in the ''any repairs / work carried
> out since the last Permit'' question, list the Pin repair work and the
> addition of inspection panels as per Chapter 23, P 3,4,5 ?
> The torque tube CAN be got out by working down the ''tunnel''.
> As you have noted, support the rear fuselage with a padded trestle.
> Fill the baggage area with foam / cushions to the height of the
> seatback / D panel hole so you can ''surf'' in and out. If you have
> the Classic fuel filler, take the hose off and plug the tank inlet.
> Get cushions and carpet offcuts in the rear hull so you don't point
> load the skin with elbows etc, 3 or 4 layers of carpet / underlay
> should do. Unbolt the pitch pushrod containment tower and remove,
> should be 8 bolts / nuts holding it to the hull / roof, and 2 on the
> wooden cross piece [ 3/8'' & 1/4'' spanners].Weight the tailplanes
> aft down and tie the stick forward to park the mass balance weight up
> in the roof. Surf aft and unbolt the mass balance arm, 2 bolts /
> nuts [3/8''&1/4''] and pushrod, 1 bolt / nut [1/2'' &3/8'' ] from the
> horn. Bung the arm out and lay the pushrod in the hull. Pad under /
> over the pushrod so any body weight on it doesn't hurt it.Also protect
> the two glass lay up brackets in the hull for the tower, fill
> between with stiff foam so they don't get broken.
> Pad your self up from the hull with cushions so you adopt the
> ''Superman'' position, with your arm outstretched in front of you, you
> will have to hold yourself up with the palm of your hand while you are
> straightening the split pin and pulling it out, pointed nose pliers
> and gently used cutters are needed to pull / curl the split pins out.
> Start with the outer pins first.
> Pull the drive pin out with Mole Grips.
> You can now rotate the entire torque tube to allow better access to
> the remaining 2 split pins.
> Mark everything as to its position, I put a red blob inside the bottom
> of the port end on the main tube [ paint or nail varnish ] this won't
> get knocked off at the Machine Shop. Mark all else with a indellable
> marker pen, ie Port / Stb TP12, TP 10 collars, with both the writing
> as to where, and a line though the lot so it can go together on the
> bench back in the same way. The red nail varnish on the Port TP12 in a
> place that won't get knocked off is a good plan.
> Cool lighting in there is needed, so not a 100 watt lead lamp ! and a
> fan blowing in helps.
> Could take 3 to 4 hours of sweating and swearing to get it out, bit
> longer to put it back.
> Tools needed. Imperial spanners [ wrenches for those in the US] &
> Imperial sockets [ 1/4'' , 3/8'' , 1/2''] needle nose pliers, Mole
> [Vise] grips, side cutters, copper / hide hammer, a selection of
> punches, magnetic bowl [ to put the bolts / nuts in when you are in
> there, to stop them escaping ] and a swear box. I have the cranked arm
> / long pushrod ratchet spanners which help to reach the bolt heads. To
> get a spanner on the nuts [1/4'' & 3/8''] I have B&Q plastic13mm
> double pipe clips [ as used to mount central heating pipes] to bolt
> the other end of the spanners to, which spring on to the two 1/2''
> tube arms [ you can't get both arms up there at the same time ].
> Entrust the assembly to a good Machine Shop to drill / ream to suit
> the O/S pins.
> Fitting is the reverse of dismantling, only more difficult ! Hard bit
> is getting the new pins aimed to go in and come out the other side ! I
> am working on a clamp / aiming / thumbscrew / press gizzmo at the
> moment, watch this space.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net
> <mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net>>
> To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com
> <mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>>
> Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:03
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
>
>
> Thanks Neville.
> Phoned the LAA today ref. New Inspection Hole.
> Basically No,
> As i,m in the UK its new dowels and clamps approved by LAA.
> So i have to find a small person to climb down inside the tunnel after having
> removed the mass balance weight.
> I assume this is the easiest way to get at the pins, as you can see them.
>
> Obviously with the tail propped,and all the panels off for light and air.
> If i go about it this way.
> How long to get it out., and do you see any other problem,
> Regards
> Alan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=385573#385573
>
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