For those that are interested
Phew "things are never as good or as bad as they seem at first sight" - it
wasn't as bad as I thought it might be.well not bad at all really.
Bud as usual was very helpful.
Yours
Will
From: Bud Yerly [mailto:budyerly@msn.com]
Sent: 15 March, 2011 11:12
Subject: Fw: Will Daniell's wing
Will,
See Dave Goddard's comments below, and sleep well.
Putting a wood plug in the existing hole is a bit fiddle and faddle, you may
be better off using a bit of Redux in the hole. Mix about 20 grams of
Redux. Start by using the raw Redux on a Q tip or small brush to thoroughly
saturate the wood. Then flox up the the rest and fill the hole using peel
ply and a bit of metal or ply with release tape clamped over the hole to
keep it from oozing out. and making a nice flat cured surface. Put a lamp
on it for the night to keep the temp around 30C or 100F overnight. Then
let's start over.
Use that bolt head in the fuselage C section and put a soda straw or tubing
that will slide in line to the rigged spar. Use 5 minute or clay or some
means of allowing a mark on the spar to show when the bit of straw or tubing
slides over to make contact. That marks the spot for the wing mounted QD.
Cut the straw if it is glued and drill with a small pilot hole dead square
to the spar and progressively open it up.
I begin in the shop with an 1/8 inch drill bit. Then leave the bit in the
wing and re-rig. Check the alignment and then drill for home using an
alignment jig to drill straight..
In your fuzzy photo's it did not look like you had done your spar to root
rib layups (Chap 8-6), but I could be wrong. These need to be done before
that spar cup and such is on of course.
On the side where you are concerned about the bolt head recess or opening,
you may use a spade bit of course or I have found that a Forsner bit works
well. A Dremel tool with a flat topped carbide tip and a router attachment
allows neat work also. Go slow and take your time. The difference in
materials will make the spade bit, or any bit want to wobble.
Finally, grind down your glass on that head side a layer or two to four with
your die grinder. Feather the grinding smoothly at a very gradual angle.
Only grind off your spar to root plies you added in chapter 8. Then apply a
Bid Cloth patch staggered in layers of at least 1.5-2.0 inch overlap on the
first with each layer .5 inches beyond the first for the full six layers and
that will re- establish your spar to rib overlap. Of course you could grind
more down carefully to the spar and reapply the two longest spar laps
overlapping a couple of inches, but it is not necessary. The patch will be
fine.
Once you have the head of the bolt exactly where you want it, flox it in
with Redux as the manual states and you are on your way.
Regards,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: David Goddard <mailto:david.goddard@swifttg.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 5:15 AM
Subject: Re: Will Daniell's wing
Good morning Bud,
Yes, I see no problems structurally: the minimum distance from the
rovings to a correctly sized hole on a wing on-site here was 9mm and
the shear loads which are constant along the tang have plenty of
reserve at this section because the tang is widest at this point.
Plenty of room to put a wooden plug in place with Redux and drill out
to size OR, if you feel the skills to do this are lacking, then Redux
would also be fine but a good and full bearing surface would still
need to be achieved.
It looks like the covering cloth has been damaged and so it would be
necessary to make the surface flush and then put staggered patch
covering cloths over the area.
Hope this helps, but if you want to talk, I will be here all day today
and tomorrow.
Best regards,
Dave G
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