Hi! Cleve....
For my experience I'd put the batteries on the PAX footwell and use
multi-strand welding cable to the 3300 engine and starter. Keep it
shortest route and nearest(save weight and loss of starting boost), with
the six cylinders you will have two coming on compression together and
as ever you need to get one just over top dead centre before you have a
chance. I "fannied" about for 3 months on the basis of what people were
shouting for me to do (battery's in the back cables etc. etc.) until I
took the "bull by the horns" fitted two 13AH Red Top batteries in
parallel and I just changed them one 9 years old and one 8 years.
Together they put in excess of 800 hours in faultlessly (except when I
left the battery solenoid on for about 3 weeks!)
To be honest I only changed them when I awoke to the reality of the
Rotax 914(which I now have) needing battery power for it's fuel pumps.
Weight and balance was suited to the batteries being forward any way.
Regards
Bob Harrison. G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
clevelee@earthlink.net
Sent: 29 December 2008 13:48
Subject: Europa-List:
<clevelee@earthlink.net>
Hi All,
Am wondering if anyone can point me to some pictures of the Bob Berube
Conventional gear mod - more than what's on the Club disc. Looking for
more images around the hard points and attachment to get a feel for the
scope of the change. Any comments relative to the composite vs.
Aluminum
gear are welcome - if anyone has been in both.
While on the subject, am finally beginning my electrics and wondering
where
people are routing their battery cables - an upper corner of the tunnel?
Thanks for the help...
Cleve Lee
A198 (He says embarrasingly) Mono XS Jabiru 3300
Market Harborough, UK
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