Hi All
I am filling at the moment, just to make all of you that have been through
it envious! I have tried the fishing line method but found that second and
third applications were necessary to deal with low areas. Of course, hot
wiring rules apply in terms of Burt Rutan's 'talking numbers'. That is the
spline has to be non flexible and the angle has to be kept parallel to the
line of the curvature.
Brian Davies came around and said that he used the lay it on thick and sand
it back once method and I have found that this works better for me. The only
issue with blocking back, apart from avoiding cutting into the fiber glass
is not to put too much heat into the component.
Getting the mixture dry enough (using expancel) I have also found difficult.
I will try the system described in Jim and Heather Butcher's recent e-mail,
particularly working it on a board with a spreader and the smear of resin
should help the interface adhesion. It is worth a try
The trouble is that by the time you are getting proficient the job is
finished. My respect grows for all you Classic builders and I am careful not
to winge on about filling and rubbing down in their company
Thanks for all the useful and interesting inputs
Tony Wickens
XS Kit 353
Martin Tuck wrote>
> The method is to use a pair of fishing lines (I think I used 100 lb
> breaking strain but it was about 0.020" dia.). Use weights at either end
> to drap them over the surface and space them about 10 inches apart like a
> couple of tram lines. Slap on the filler (and if it turns out shiny you
> need more filler in the mix) between the tramlines and then using a wide
> spackle knife or straight edge run it along the tram lines to spread the
> filler. You should end up with a 0.020' thickness of filler. Lift up one
> line and place it 10 inches from the other and continue the process all
> the way down the surface being filled.
>
> Now when you lift up the lines you will be left with a line of no filler
> when the fishing line was but a quick run over with the spackle knife you
> can force just enough down to fill the gap.
>
> For sanding, I started with 60 grit and worked my way down to 100 then
> 160.
>
> Avoid adding more filler on top of previously cured filler as you will
> make it difficult to get an even surface presumably because of variations
> in hardness of the filler mix.
>
> Brings back happy memories! :-)
>
> Martin Tuck
> Europa N152MT
> Wichita, Kansas
>
>
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