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Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:57:26

Hi Bill and Sue,

Some builders pointed out a potential corrosion problem with my choice of 
aluminum. There are other choices. George Powell obtained a steel tube from 
a builder in Germany, and whoever supplies the TP5/TP6 to Europa would 
obviously also be able to supply a longer cut.
I like the idea of a Teflon coat on the TP4, but wouldn't have a clue on how 
to apply it.
I am not really concerned about the corrosion issue. The torque tube is 
prone to corrosion anyway, when moisture is present. I have seen the 
corrosion on the exterior of other Europas, and if the exterior corrodes 
then you can be sure that the tube's interior is corroded as well, unless 
the necessary steps were taken before assembly .
I always apply a good coat of lithium grease, and the tailplanes should be 
pulled off at least twice a year for a n inspection. I never had a problem 
in that area.

Removal of TP5:

I tried it the hard way by making a micro oven inside an aluminum tube, 
using a 20W halogen bulb and an oven thermometer with a remote probe for 
accurate temperature control. The thermometer had an upper display limit of 
200 degrees, and that was not hot enough to soften the redux I had used as 
an adhesive. I have now seen another oven thermometer with a much higher 
limit, but I have discarded that technique, unless I wanted to remove the 
TP6.

Using the same tube, and with the inside opening sealed with a heatresistent 
material (felt chair glides), I applied a good dose of heat with a 
blowtorch. The tailplane is in an upright position, so that no heat finds 
its way into the foam area. Using a narrow kitchen knife I probed the 
adhesive on the outside of the TP5.  When the redux had softened enough I 
removed the heat and cut around the TP5 with the same knife, which had a 
serrated edge and I was using it like a saw.
For the removal of the tube you need a locking pair of longnose pliers. Lock 
it onto the edge and slowly remove the thing with a turning motion. You may 
have to cut away a tiny bit of the plywood rib (2 x 5mm) to make room for 
the pliers.

Now having said all that, I suggest you ignore the two techniques above. 
Next time I would simply use the knife  and heat it with a blowtorch before 
cutting into the adhesive.
I didn't do any damage to the foam.

Installing the new TP5:

You need a small flashlight so you can see exactly what is inside the 
tailplane.
Do a trial fit of the new tube and see if it butts right up against the TP6. 
If there is any adhesive on the edge of the TP6, then don't disturb it, but 
grind a piece out of the edge of the long tube.
I had to do that on both sides.
Once you have a satisfactory fit, mark the tube where it needs to be cut 
off. I used a hacksaw and belt sander to do the necessary trimming.
Now take the tailplane and do a trial dry fit on the aircraft.
Remove the new TP5.
Use a narrow long spatula to apply floxed epoxy to the foam walls and over 
the old adhesive. The flox should be fairly wet, and you need only coat the 
first two thirds of the hole.
Put a liberal coat of neat epoxy on the tube exterior and insert it slowly 
with a turning motion.
The tailplane is in the horizontalposition, and at the halfway mark remove 
the surplus flox which has been pushed ahead of the tube. Remove more flox 
again when the tube is fully inserted.
Now take some time to remove alltrace of adhesive inside the tubes. I used 
rags dampened with acetone, on a long stick. I believe that vinegar can also 
be used, if you are concerned about foam damage.
That is about it. Mount the tailplane on the torque tube to ensure perfect 
alignment of the two tubes. If the alignment is not perfect, then adjust by 
applying pressure at the tailplane tip in different directions until the TP4 
slides in all the way. Make sure also that it was well greased.
After 4-5 hours of curing pull the tailplanes off again, just to make sure 
that there is no bonding going on in case some more epoxy has seeped out of 
the gap onto the TP4.
Then push it back on and leave overnight.

Hope that helps,

Karl


>From: Bill and Sue <bill.sue@orcon.net.nz>
>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
>Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:55:56 +1300
>
>
>Yes I would be interested as I have not done mine yet .
>
>Mono XS
>ZK CHV
>914 Airmaster
>
>Rgds
>
>Sue & Bill
>
>
>Karl Heindl wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>My original plan was to replace both TP5 and TP6 with a single tube.
>>After removing the TP5 I realized that there was no point at all in 
>>removing the TP6. It is only necessary to ensure that it cannot move 
>>inboard, which would then allow the TP12 to disconnect from the tailplane 
>>etc. etc.
>>I simply replaced the TP5 with a longer alu tube from ACS, part number 
>>03-37900. This butts right up against the TP6, and there is no way this 
>>can ever move inboard. The tube is made of 6061 T6 aluminum.
>>Advantages:
>>A straightforward mod.
>>No cutting into the tailplane.
>>No misalignment problem with TP5 and TP6.
>>A permanent solution. ( assuming that there was a problem in the first 
>>place.)
>>If anyone is interested I can give more details on how I did it.
>>
>>Cheers,
>>
>>Karl
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>The next generation of Hotmail is here!  http://www.newhotmail.co.uk
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>__________ NOD32 2607 (20071022) Information __________
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>
>

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