Hi! Cleve
Split pins were removed by long bent nosed pliers through the minimum 5"
diameter access hole by one hand and looking in through the top inspection
hole ajacent to the trim motor drive. The drive pins were jacked out to
start with by a small "C" Clamp then "worried" out by a pair of joiners nail
pullers then mole grips, no drilling.
Just accept that you need to cut back the length of the nylon bushes from
the inboard end to within 1/16th of the edge of the drive pin holes. Then my
mod. can be applied without any dismantling. If you still have the top off
now's the time to do it, you could also reduce the diameter of the washers
on the pins to give my clamps even more purchase area.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk
clevelee@cswebmail.com
Subject: Re: Annual Permit checks was Insulating fuel
lines
Bob, et al . .
Just out of curosity, re. the tailplane, how did you manage to remove the
cotter pins and drill out the drive pins and re-assemble?
While the top is still off, I've looked at all of the suggestions for mods
in this area, even my own. I've opened the holes to 5/16", decided that
wouldn't really prevent the eventual wearing and have loctited the parts in
place with 3000psi 250 degree f retaining compound. (This is not the 'high
strength' stuff)
I perceive repairs to that area as 'would be major surgery' and decided that
if I have to go in there to fix misaligned tailplanes, it would be
appropriate to consider replacing the bronz tailplane bushings. Thus,
replacing the bushings from the heat necessary to remove the tailplane
positioners (don't recall the TP number)would be considered part of the
overall repair.
But I am fascinated with how you got out the cotter pins from the 1/4"
clevis pins. How did you see behind the a)shaft, from the forward access
and b)rear bulkhead, from the rear access?
Cleve Lee
A198 N396ST
>
> Hi! Garry.
> Hey I don't consider myself an 'ole timer!' However the big thing that is
> prevalent in my mind is the differential movement between the tailplanes.
> I've twice had to oversize the drive pins, resulting in my mod. of clamps
on
> the drive torque tube. Also corrosion on the flap bracket furniture.
> regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forum-owner@europaclub.org.uk
> Subject: Re: Insulating fuel lines
>
>
> David Corbett wrote.......
> "My monowheel is fantastic - it is now undergoing the checks for its first
> annual Permit renewal."
>
> I'm about to undergo my 3rd "annual" inspection of my tri gear. I'm
always
> worried that there is something I've overlooked during my inspection. Has
> anyone put together a check list of things that should be inspected?
Based
> on the experience of some of the old-timers on this forum, are there any
> things you'd like to pass along as problem areas you've discovered during
> your maintenance inspections? Are there any really critical things I
should
> look for? Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Garry V. Stout N4220S Trigear A060
>
> District Manager, AT&T Business Services
> Phone: 813-878-3929 Fax 813-878-5651
>
>
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