Dehumidifiers are worthwhile, IMHO.
They put out more heat energy than they consume in electric (latent heat of
water vapour etc).
The 70% relative humidity criterion is a MAXIMUM, not a target. The strength
of an epoxy bond (to just about anything) improves by leaps-and-bounds as
the humidity surrounding the surfaces to be bonded falls.
You can cheat here too by warming parts with a hot air gun; this creates a
low-humidity microclimate at the bonding surface.
Duncan McFadyean
-----Original Message-----
From: Nigel Graham <nigel_graham@intercept.com>
<europa@avnet.co.uk>
Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 12:30 PM
Subject: Re: Heating the shop
>> I figure if I don't get the environment right first time, it'll cost
>me far
>> more in the long run in both rework and energy costs. A nice cosy
>workshop
>> when I'm not doing composites will be nice too.
>>
>> Can anyone comment on this plan? Is it all necessary, and have I
>missed
>> something?
>
>> Regards,
>> Jeremy Davey
>
>This is the right approach Jeremy.
>
>I would paint the walls white to reflect as much light as possible. Silk
>emulsion is good - it wipes down easily too.
>
>If you have a concrete floor, paint it with Wickes Grey floor paint, it
>keeps the dust down, is easy to clean and reflects light.
>
>Put in as many 4 foot double fluorescent fittings in as you can.
>
>The brighter the environment, the longer you can work with less
>fatigue -important if you have to work in the evenings.
>
>Keep the floor free of junk. Hang it on the walls. I bought a load of
>brand new "end-of-line" kitchen cabinets from MFI for about 10 quid a
>shot, although the solid oak doors are a little over-the-top for a
>workshop.
>
>A second hand 'fridge is useful for keeping mixed, but unused
>epoxy/Redux for use up to one week later - in the ice box .....and beer
>in the rest.
>
>Lastly, I have a glass fronted box containing a single bottle of
>champagne fixed above the work bench. The engraving reads "In case of
>Completion, Break Glass"
>
>Happy building
>
>Nigel
>
>
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