europa-list
[Top] [All Lists]

28V vs 12V

Subject: 28V vs 12V
From: Robert L. Nuckolls III <nuckolls@aeroelectric.com>
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 2000 09:55:35

>This comes up often, usually by someone who has gotten some great "deals"
>on avionics and who tries to make it all work harmoniously. Every attempt
>I know of to mix and match avionics of different voltages has, sooner or
>later, been abandoned by those who tried.
>
>Were you living in Montana or some other cold spot, I'd suggest 28 volts
>to compensate for the effects of low temps on batteries. As an added
>aside, you could then use that voltage to advantage and reduce the weight
>of your plane by a few pounds by running lighter gauge wire. 

   A common misconception about batteries . . . the goal when
   cranking an engine is to maximize the energy transfer from
   the battery's chemistry to the starter motor. The biggest
   impediment to this transfer is a combination of resistances
   in battery, wire, contactors and terminals.

   When GA (most notibly Cessna) went all 28 v it was mostly for
   reasons of economy . . . one size alternator/battery fits all
   from C-150 to C-210 . . . yes, there was some notible improvement
   in cranking at cold weather with 28v . . .

   In retrospect, this was mostly due to poor attention paid to
   reducing system impedances. A little clean up work with choice
   of wire sizes and hardware location and upgrading the starter
   which had roots in the 1938  6v Jeep, there would have been
   no detectable difference in cranking performance of the two
   systems.

   Today, the modern RG battery is head and shoulders above
   the flooded batteries upon which many of us base our perceptions
   of battery and system performance.

   When I was helping B&C test batteries to gain STC on their
   RG products for TC aircraft, we put two brand new batteries
   in the freezer overnight. One was a Concord flooded product,
   the other was a B&C RG.  In the morning, we loaded each battery
   in turn with 300 amps . . . about half again more current than
   it takes to crank an engine.

   The flooded battery started out at 8 volts and slid downhill
   from there. At the end of 30 seconds of loading, the RG batttery
   had not yet fallen to 8 volts!

   This can be attributed to one and only one attribute of the
   RG technology . . . very low internal resistance compared
   to flooded batteries at ALL temperatures.

>But you don't. You live in Florida. Go with the 12 volt system.
>Everything else being equal, 12 volt equipment is more plentiful and
>often cheaper.

    . . . not often, ALWAYS.  You need to consider beyond the
   cost of acquisition. Cost of ownership for a 28 v system are
   real cash and time suckers compared to 14 v.

>Second suggestion. Wait until a few months before the airframe is
>finished, painted and the engine in place BEFORE buying avionics. I've
>brand new Loran and ADF  units that are virtually boat anchors. Good
>deals when I bought them, probably just like you, expecting I'd have the
>thing built and flying "in no time" 

  Excellent advice. Electronics advances faster than any other
  commodity . . . I wouldn't buy a battery or a radio until just
  before you're ready to install them.  Use jumper cables to a
  car/boat/tractor battery or an alternator simulator to test 
  the airplane's systems.  Buy a fresh new battery to install
  before first light under the wheels.


     Bob . . .
     --------------------------------------------
     ( Knowing about a thing is different than  )
     ( understanding it. One can know a lot     )
     ( and still understand nothing.            )
     (                     C.F. Kettering       )
     --------------------------------------------
           http://www.aeroelectric.com



<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • 28V vs 12V, Robert L . Nuckolls III <=