There have been so many elegent solutions mentioned for this piece that I
almost hesitate to say this (fools rush in, right?):
Why not use reuse the stretchie bungie cord, or a section of it? To me
this seems simple, light, cheap (!), and effective no matter if the brake
pads wear a bit.
Kerry
----------
> From: Graham Singleton <100421.2123@compuserve.com>
> Subject: Re: Parking brake
> Date: Monday, March 31, 1997 7:02 PM
>
> >>There are numerous elaborations on this theme beyond Peter Kembers "rod
in
> the slot" method, involving ratchets, plungers etc. but at the end of the
day
> why not adopt the "lever in gate" principle used for the undercarriage.
<<
>
> I still think Jon Tye's cam is the neatest and most practical. Take a 1
1/4"
> disc, drill a 3/16" hole 1/4" from one edge. Drill another hole in the
console
> 5/16" in front of the brake lever and put an anchor nut behind it. Nylon
washer
> between the disc and the console for friction All it needs now is a
handle, not
> too long that it can foul the throttle. We cut our cam and handle from a
piece
> of aluminium angle. With the brake off the handle lies back along the
edge of
> the console.
>
> If the brake system is fully bled, ie no air in it, the brake will be
quite
> solid. The lever only comes back an 1/8th of an inch or so for full
braking
> power. However, the pads wear and the system isn't self adjusting, so the
> movement will slowly increase. Allow for another 3/8th inch of movement
in your
> cam system. When you top up pull the lever gently back before taking the
filler
> cap off, then slowly add fluid and simultaneously allow the lever to
return
> keeping air out of the high point, which is the front end of the master
> cylinder.
>
> Graham
>
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