Thanks Graham,
I have a few questions from your attached e-mail, if you could clarify. By
the way, thanks for the detail sofar, it all helps to keep modifying my
technique. I'll use capitals to highlight my questions to differentiate to
others who may/may not be interested.
>>> Still not decided as to whether I should be squeegeeing between plies<<
>
>This is the way I always do it, and advise all my "flock?" to do the same. It
>results in a light neat part.
>
>First micro the foam, this is imporatant to give a good bond between foam and
>glass. Micro should be as dry as can be spread on easily with a squeegee.
Scrape
>off the excess to leave the foam almost dry but with all the pores filled with
>micro.
WOULD YOU SAY YOUR MICRO THEREFORE IS NOT A LOT DISSIMILAR TO YOUR DRY MICRO
I.E. CLOSER TO IT THAN TO PURE RESIN ITSELF?
DOES YOUR FOAM BLANK AFTER THE LAYUP HAS CURED STILL RETAIN ITS ORIGINAL
BLUE COLOUR OR IS IT NOW BASICALLY A VERY LIGHT BLUE?
MY MICRO SLURRY HAS BEEN MORE TO DATE LIKE ONE OF MY KID'S BOWLS OF MELTED
ICE CREAM, IF THEY HAVE FORGOTTEN TO EAT IT.(THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN VERY
OFTEN!!!!)THE COLOUR OF THE WET MICRO IS NO LONGER RECOGNISABLE AS "AT ALL
YELLOWISH LIKE THE RESIN"-ITS ALL WHITE.
WHAT ARE YOU BASING YOUR CHOICE OF MICROSLURRY THICKNESS ON SUCH THAT IT
APPEARS THICKER THAN MY OTHER REFERENCES SUCH AS THE RUTAN BOOK.( I KNOW A
LOT OF WATER HAS GONE UNDER THE BRIDGE SINCE THEN, AND AIRCRAFT MADE)
IS IT TO DO WITH DELAMINATION EXPERIENCE?
>Next lay on the glass and carefully arrange it with accurate straight fibre
>orientation.
YES, I WILL TRY THIS TECHNIQUE ON THE NEXT LAYUP, SIDE 2 OF THE RUDDER. I
BELIEVE I NEED TO MASTER IT ANYWAY FOR THE TAILPLANE BUTT JOINTS.
This will be easy because the dry micro doesn't grab the glass.
>Pour on the resin and spread it quickly and lightly so the resin can soak
itself
>in. Move the excess about to wet the dry bits.Working steadily wet out the
whole
>of the glass and squeegee off from the middle using the wedge of excess
resin in
>front of the squeegee to push any air bubbles out and off the edges. When
>satisfied repeat with the next ply of glass.
YOU OBVIOUSLY SQUEEGEE IN ALL DIRECTIONS, CAREFULLY DO YOU???
>
>Finally an hour or so after finishing go back and carefully inspect to make
>sure nothing has moved. You may find a few air bubbles have sneaked up on you.
>Rectify before cure.
HOW?? IS THIS WHERE YOU WOULD USE A BLOW DRYER? I GOT INTO TROUBLE LAST TIME
I USED MY WIFES BLOW DRYER WITHOUT ASKING!! THE RESIN UNNOTICED ON MY GLOVES
MAY HAVE HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH IT!!
>
>Pouring or brushing resin onto a microed foam surface will serve only to spread
>micro into the glass skin, not at all where it's wanted
IMHO & SIMPLY AS AN OBSERVATION, I HAVE FOUND THAT THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN SUCH
THAT YOU CAN NOTICE IT VISUALLY ANYWAY. I SUPPOSE IF WE ARE REALLY ONLY
FILLING PORES AND THEN PROPERLY SQUEEGEEING OFF, THE FUTURE APPLICATION OF
RESIN SHOULD NOT NECESSARILY PULL UP FROM BELOW THE WET MICRO FROM THE PORES.
> and grab the glass, making it very hard to get all the fibres laying where you
>want them.
THIS CERTAINLY DOES HAPPEN SUCH THAT ONCE ITS DOWN, IN MY MIND, ITS DOWN FOR
GOOD. USING THIS TECHNIQUE YOU HAVE TO MAINTAIN FIBRE ORIENTATION AND
STRAIGHTNESS AS YOU PLACE THE CLOTH. IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED, THE PREVIOUSLY
POSTED NOTES ABOUT ROLLING YOUR CLOTH ONTO A 1" DOWEL IS A MUST, IN
CONJUNCTION WITH "FLYER'S" TIP ABOUT COLOURING THE BUNDLES BEFORE LAYUP. I
USE 4" LONG DASHED LINES ABOUT 4" APART, ROWS ALSO ABOUT 4" APART. THE
DASHES ARE OFFSET FROM THE NEIGHBOURING LINES AS I STILL DO NOT HAVE
COMPLETE FAITH IN WHETHER MY VEGETABLE GUM PENS COULD COMPROMISE MY
STRUCTURE, THEREFORE THE DASHES.
>
DO YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE AVERAGE COMPONENT WEIGHTS AT HAND? I GOT THEM ONCE
BUT MY FILING SYSTEM SEEMS TO HAVE SWALLOWED THEM.
I APPRECIATE THE TIME AS MY TECHNICAL COUNCILLOR HASNT WORKED ON A
FIBREGLASS AIRCRAFT BEFORE AND THEREFORE IS NOT MUCH GOOD FOR GLASSSWORK
QUESTIONS
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection.
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