 Aileron hinges: Used two 1/16" drill bits as spacers between the flanges to maintain a constant gap. |
 Aileron hinges: A 1.5mm allen key was used to hold the hinge flap up against the flange while drilling. |
 Alodine treated aileron link tube |
 Connecting-ends riveted to the link tube |
 Leading edge root flange trimmed to make room for the link rod |
 Link rod attached |
 Bonding the aileron mass balance boxes. I am bonding these before cutting the slots for the horns. |
 Foam shape supplied in the manual had to be modified for a better fit (inboard). |
 I decided to make the entire horn with the foam core, and add the lead weights later. |
 The slots were cut on the underside of the wings. To ensure perfect alignment with the slots, the horns were glued to the ailerons with the ailerons attached to the wing. The aileron was then removed for laminating the horns. |
 After lamination |
 Left one side of the horns open so that lead weights can be added later. |
 Checking alignment and deflection |
 The method described in the manual for making a template using discrete co-ordinates and connecting them with an arbitrary curve did not make much sense to me. The discrete points are given to 0.5mm accuracy, and how the the connecting lines were drawn made a large difference to how the template fit on the wing. I tried several templates on particle shelving boards and eventually discarded the idea. Then I cut the template on a foam board using my CNC foam cutter. Instead of joining the discrete co-ordinates with curved lines, I made a stair-case pattern so that only the discrete co-ordinates touched the wing surface. This removed any uncertainties in how the points are connected. |
 The fit was nearly perfect, and the cut lines were accurate to within 0.5mm. The foam edges were reinforced with a layer of slurry to prevent damage. |
 I trimmed the flap too much by mistake, which produced an unsighlty gap between the aileron and the flap. I extended the flap flange by laying up two layers of bid from the inside while holding the shape with a sheet of flashing aluminum, and one more ply on the outside. It turned out better than I had expected. I trimmed the flap carefully the second time, doing it in small steps to make sure I don't cut too much. It is very easy to over-trim because you need to remove the flap from the hinges each time. |
 Hot-glued double-tongue depressers in several pieces to set 3mm gap. |
 Flap hinges held by clamps |
 Flap movement |
 Drilling the hole is nearly impossible without a tight fitting right-angle attachment. These drill bits are threaded, and can only be rotated in one direction. |
 Used plain temporary nuts instead of the stiff nuts. |
 Alodine treated flap hardware. |
 Zinc chromate primer |
 Outboard flap hinge and outrigger mechanism |
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 With the outrigger leg and wheel attached |
 Wow, cool! |
 Another view from inboard. |
 Neatly packed away in the wing cradle |
 On the port wing, I discovered that the W18 plates were slightly misaligned, causing a slight gap between the outrigger assembly and the W18 plates. To make matters worse, this gap was tapered, starting at 1.2mm at the leading edge down to zero at the trailing edge. The likely cause is that the W21 plates were probably not assembled tightly enough and/or improperly clamped during curing. The gap seemed too small to warrant softening the epoxy and repositioning the W18 plates, but it could not be ignored either because attaching bolts may stress the W18 plates in the wrong direction. |
 A tapered aluminum shim was used to fill the gap. I don't know why nobody sells tapered metal shims. But it is not too difficult to make one from a stock aluminum plate by tilting it on an angle vise and running an end-mill over it. |
 After installation. Notice the shim plate. |
 The original nylon rods supplied with the kit were designed to be inserted only part-way into the OR-1, with just 5mm of meat for the bolts to hold on to. This did not make a lot of sense. I discarded these rods, and bought longer rods and inserted them all the way into the OR-1 before drilling the bolt holes. Trimming the rod and fitting the wheel fork will be left for later when the wings have been installed and the ground clearance has been determined. |
 This is the wing-tip cavity before closing with the WS-4 moulding. |
 This is after closing the tip with the moulding. The manual suggests installing the moulding with its lips facing inboard. The exact purpose of this orientation was unclear to me, so I installed the moulding with the lips facing outboard, so that it creates a smooth flush surface inboard. |